Wintertime Blues and Greens and Yellows and Pinks...

With winter just days away, I ponder upon the notion of seasonal clothing. Why do fashion designers and media tell us to wear clothing to match the landscapes?

Fall clothing is usually burnt oranges, mustard yellows and browns. Winter clothing is usually black, navy and grey. I have lived in climates that reach the below zero temperatures and the skies are grey and cloudy for several months. As a result of the dreariness, I became susceptible to depression and lack of energy. I blamed it on lack of color.

I have researched this phenomenon and found several studies about wintertime blues and the lack of color. Albeit, these studies explain a serious mental disorder and obviously there are other symptoms involved, but I would like to take this opportunity to challenge fashion designers to offer brighter, happier colors in their winter collections. In the past, cold weather clothing made of wool or cashmere was only available in dark or dull colors. I have noticed a slight increase in brighter colors in these fabrics over the recent years but I think the fashion industry only wants to encourage the use of color by adding accessories- just a little bit to "make it pop" as the phrase goes.

I do not live in that cold climate anymore. I reside in a much more even tempered environment that will let me wear more choices of clothing and fabrics year round. For this I am grateful- but it doesn't stop the window dressers at the local mall from outfitting the mannequins in black and grey. So my advice to those with a craving for color in the winter is: wear weather appropriate clothing in any color, shade,pattern or fabric.

Yes Virginia, there is a cure to the wintertime blues.

Tag! You're it!

Labels and tags that are given to people are not always a good thing. Labels and tags for clothing, however; can tell you a story. When shopping for vintage clothing, one of the first things I look for on a piece of clothing is the label. Clothing tags give you the typical information: manufacturer, size, material, etc. If a size and material label are not found; then sometimes I can find an RN number.

RN stands for Registered Number. This means that the clothing manufacturer is registered with the US Federal Trade Commission. RN numbers are very helpful because it will link the piece of clothing to a designer or clothing line. From there, you can search the manufacturer’s years of production. There are several links online including a very informative link on one of my favorite websites: Vintage Fashion Guild
http://www.vintagefashionguild.org/component/option,com_alphacontent/Itemid,100

Not all clothing has tags or RN numbers; this is largely due to the fact that a lot of clothing that was made prior to 1970 was handmade. Handmade clothing is harder to date and identify but usually there are signs to help determine those characteristics. I was sewing on an old cast iron Singer before ever taking a home economics class. As a result, I think that I am more familiar with fabrics and textures than a lot of people nowadays. I am grateful for my interest in clothing at an age when you could choose from several textures and weights in fabric as opposed to the purely 100% cottons that you find at your local fabric stores today.

One thing I can almost always count on when dating fabric is that any heavy polyester or polyester knit fabric is ALWAYS geeky in appearance and ALWAYS 1970’s! But, “Hey”; I am almost always geeky in appearance so I don’t mind being labeled in that respect.

Fox In Socks

One of my favorite accessories is socks. Womens' and girls' socks have come a long way from the plain white cuffed style. However; I do keep at least a half dozen or so on hand and do wear them regularly with my black Mary Janes. By the by; socks aren’t usually trendy or emphasized by its parent fashion industry.

When I was growing up there wasn’t much selection when it came to socks. There were white cuffed, white ankle socks with little pom poms at the heel or boy’s striped tube socks (if you were a tomboy and played softball). Like I said, the sock industry has come a long way since the ‘70’s.

Nowadays, almost every retail store has at least 2 or 3 rows of socks in a wide variety of colors, shapes and designs. During the Christmas season you can get a pair of microfiber ankle socks that resemble candy canes or wool slipper socks with felt “Rudolph the Red Nosed Reindeer” faces looking up at you. I admit, these are impulse items but hey, I’m a sucker for impulse items.

I was visiting a local craft and fabric store the other day and came across several diy sock books. These books were not the run of the mill baby bootie designs. The patterns were cute, edgy and the designs looked as if they reached as far as your imagination could take you on a sock journey. One of the books that caught my eye is called Knitted Socks East And West. The pair of socks on the cover reminded me of ‘80’s leg warmers; but for your feet! They are super cute but I would never wear them because they expose your toes and mine are usually cold; even during the summer months.

In addition to my on hand supply of white cuffed socks I have several pairs of knee high socks: argyles, polka dotted, fishnet, opaque and dotted swiss as well as a plethora of solid colors. I work in a conservative environment where khaki pants and button down, cotton blouses usually make up the dress code. Since I have a lifetime of pushing the dress code boundaries, I have found that socks can give me a subtle edge to my outfit without being obvious.

T Shirt USA

So, I have been following this girl's "New Dress A Day" blog online for a few weeks now; http://newdressaday.wordpress.com/ and it has revived a favorite sewing project of mine- transforming t shirts. I know this idea is not new and a lot of people have paved the way in the fashion industry by distressing, disassembling, deconstructing and safety pinning t shirts. Practically every designer in the industry has their own signature t shirt and style. I just thought it would be fun to write a blog about it and let ya'll know how I look at t shirts. I really am a fan of wearing t shirts but with my vertically challenged height and short torso, t shirts make me looked boxed in and frumpy- not the look I am usually going for.

When I see I t shirt I see potential. I see it as a piece of raw material just begging to be shaped into a skirt, a blouse, a pillow or even a rug. I don't think anything I do to a t shirt is extraordinary or really cutting edge but it is fun and gives me another way to express myself through clothing. Why, just the other night I had several comments on a t shirt I was wearing. Granted, the t shirt was noticed because it had my high school alma mater mascot on it; but the only alteration I made to the shirt was cutting off the collar. T shirt transformations can be as simple as that.

I found a really great craft book called T Shirt Generation. It is a fun step-by-step instruction manual on transforming t shirts. I often use that book for inspiration.

One of the last t shirt projects I did was during the past Superbowl. I could have worn any one of the number of New Orleans and or Saints t shirts in my collection but I really wanted something special; I mean it isn't every year the Saints are in the Superbowl!

(1) I started out with a large t shirt with the Saints graphics and logo.
(2) I cut off the sleeves and the collar.
(3) I cut the shirt down the middle of the back and then made several equal cuts in the material on both side so that they were strips that could be tied in the middle this was an easy way to cinch the t shirt around the waist thus removing any chance of frumpiness.
(4) I cut the front of the shirt down the middle as well and again in the center giving me four (triangles). I re-stitched the seams to create an empire like bodice and ruching. The bottom of the center seam was left open.
Now for the final flourish!
(5) I cut about two (2) inches down the center at the neck then tucked the corners inside and pinned them. Next, I took two (2) pieces of gold elastic and gathered the sleeves at the collarbone and tied a bow on each shoulder.

Et voila'! My very own custom made New Orleans Saints t shirt.

To Buy Or Not To Buy...Another Purse. That Is The Question!

June 14, 2010

I need another purse like I need a hole in my head. I can’t help it; it is one of my fashion weaknesses. I justify my purse shopping all of the time. My argument; purses are versatile, functional and people are always commenting on them; “Omigod! I LOVE your purse!” or asking, “Where did you get it? It’s F-A-B-U-L-O-U-S!”

According to some quirky purse forum on the internet; the average woman owns six (6) handbags. I have that many just sitting on top of my dresser! So, let’s discuss purses. Sure, they are practical and serve a purpose. Some historians say men were the more common carriers of purses until the early 19th century. Society exchanged coin money back then and since men were the keepers of the money- well, they carried it…in purses…let’s move on. Now, don’t misunderstand; women carried “purses” too but they were not fashionable. Women’s purses were rather small and not very useful and the need for one was much less than the need of one by a man. During the 19th century it did become fashionable for a young lady to create her own purse; usually a drawstring type. These purses were handmade with intricate beading or needlepoint designs. Years later the beading and needlepoint designs of purses became more and more intricate and more and more popular. It was in the late 19th century that handbags were being designed and sold for women through retail establishments.

Purses come in all sizes, shapes, colors, designs, yada-yada-yada. A few years back, I was shuffling through a pile of junk items. They were of no particular value or consequence; and I picked up a cigar box. Without thinking, I opened the box and put something small into just like I would put something into a small purse or coin purse. Et voila! I was inspired! I had to create cigar box purses! I began collecting boxes of all shapes, sizes and materials from tobacconists and friends. Some of the more decorative cardboard boxes were pretty to look at but not very sturdy for everyday use. I fashioned handles out of wire and Murano beads, I tore apart old purses for the fasteners and findings, I was going to be the next Tom Ford in balsa wood purse history.

At first, I made a purse or two for myself. I considered them edgy; an extension of my personality and attire. And, as mentioned before, people began commenting on them and asking me “Where did you get that?” So, I had another inspiration; I will create OOAK cigar box purses to sell. I found a market for this type of purse and every purse I created I was able to sell. However, the same time that this new found venture was blossoming, I was working 50 hours a week in a demanding legal position and my need to pay homeowner’s insurance and buy groceries outweighed my need to create purses. My art was put on the back burner. Things are different today.

Transforming a cigar box into a purse is a creative way to show off your individuality. The design, though limited to a square box with a hinged lid, can be very artistic. My favorite cigar box purse is adorned with a vintage Bakelite handle, a photocopy of Andy Warhol’s “Marilyn” lacquered on one side of the box and tied to the handle is part of a hot pink feather boa I used to wear while hanging out in the French Quarter. I haven’t used that purse in years but it makes me happy just knowing that it is there- with the other umpteen number of purses I own!

Recycling Will Save The Pelicans

June 2, 2010

There was a time and a place when any well respected, properly dressed, modern woman NOT only wore stockings but she would carry around a spare pair in her purse, just in case. Stockings were made of silk and they averaged about $2.00 a pair, maybe more depending on where you shopped. Today, the average American pays more than $2.00 for their morning cup of coffee. In 1940, the average American household lived on less than $24.00 per week so if you got a snag in your stockings I’m not sure you could just go out and buy another pair of stockings without sacrificing some of the family’s monthly allowance. Then, on May 15, 1940 the Du Pont Company changed how the modern woman bought and wore hosiery. It was the first day that nylon stockings were sold retail!

I came up with the concept of this blog weeks ago and thought it would be fun to explore the world of “plastic” clothing. However, as I am typing it, gallons and gallons of crude oil continue to spill into the waters of the Gulf of Mexico and kill wildlife and seafood sources of the region. I now have writer’s remorse. I don’t want to give the impression that I support offshore drilling as a viable means to continue to produce synthetic clothing and textiles by writing about the fascinating world of nylon.

On April 20, 2010, a semi-submersible exploratory offshore drilling rig in the Gulf of Mexico exploded after a blowout and sank two days later, killing eleven (11) people and causing a massive oil spill threatening the coast of Louisiana, Mississippi, Alabama, Texas, and Florida The rig is owned and operated by Transocean, Ltd., on behalf of BP.

Now, as I re-read what I started to write; I ponder this notion; “Did Mr. Du Pont’s vision of re-creating a world of synthetic fibers and materials for clothing include killing off some of our world’s richest, natural resources?” In 1937 new and exciting studies on hemp were being introduced to society. These studies of hemp coincided with Mr. Du Pont patenting his creation, nylon. Over the years it has been argued that Mr. Du Pont paid millions of dollars to private organizations to create special groups that advocate the criminalization of the production of hemp and slander its positive qualities, especially its use as a fiber in textiles. Do any of the labels on your clothing say 100% hemp? I know I don’t have any. The majority of my wardrobe is created from a fabric made of blended synthetics and cottons. Supporting recycling and reuse of already manufactured clothing, such as vintage articles is a safer way to wear the fabrics of the future.

I pray that the oil executives will control the spill and cease the production of future spilling of oil into the Gulf very soon. I also pray that a new awareness of the idea: “You Are What You Wear” will surface and force the textile industry to re-think how fibers are used.

Does Vintage Always Mean Collectible?

May 13, 2010

“Look at this great t- shirt Aunt Tura!” I heard my niece yell these words across the rows of clothing racks at my local Goodwill. I went over to see what had excited her so much. “This is cool, huh? And, it is old; it says 1978 on it!” she said. My heart gave a flutter; at last, I have a protégé to teach the finesse of vintage shopping. Upon closer inspection my fluttering heart sank. I always check the tags of clothing first and it read Old Navy. “Oh, it’s a cute top, but its retro” I said. “Retro? Isn’t that old?” she asked. Protégé, she may still be! Here was a perfect opportunity for me insert a quick tutorial on shopping for clothing and items considered vintage and collectible.

Generally speaking, clothing and mass produced goods that were manufactured before the 1920s are referred to as antique. Items from the 1920s through the mid 1980s are considered vintage. Retro, short for retrospective usually refers to items that imitate the style of a previous decade. Goods that are produced currently are usually called modern or contemporary. Opinions can vary on these definitions. This is how I determine the age of clothing and items and describe them as vintage. Do I consider all vintage items collectible? Uh, no. So, how can something that by its age can be considered vintage; be considered valuable or collectible? That’s easy: supply and demand.

The best way to see supply and demand work is on eBay. Nowadays people want green options and so recycling clothing and household items is a big motivator. Online commerce has created a whole new batch of vintage dealers because buying and wearing vintage clothing and accessories has become tres chic as well as responsible. Searching for buying opportunities online is the perfect place to see vintage vs. old crap being sold. I am in constant awe of people and their ignorance. For example; I found a listing for a Vintage 50’s Poodle Skirt. Yes, it was a skirt. Yes, it had a poodle on it. Was it vintage? Uh, no. The skirt was a costume reproduction. Was it crap? Not necessarily. I was very let down though, because I really wanted to purchase a vintage poodle skirt for $1.00! Did the seller try to deceive me with his description? Perhaps he did try. I do not condone this selling practice but this is how the supply and demand premise works. If a seller puts the word vintage in front of an item it will attract buyers. I do believe that many a seller and buyer of vintage are being led astray.

There are several online sites to help the novice vintage buyer educate themselves. I have found sites dedicated to indexing the RN number of clothing manufacturing. These numbers are found on garment tags and the number will correspond to a certain date. The RN numbers were assigned by the Federal Trade Commission for clothing manufactured in the US. This tag number makes it easy to look up it’s “circa” date. I also love to peruse costume sites for references. I might find parts of a dress or suit that was popular in an era to help determine its age. Because retro clothing of the 50’s is becoming more popular, we know a lot of it is mimicking the WWII era. So, be an educated buyer. Do some google-ing and become an expert of vintage vs. crap.

So; back to my little shopping tutorial. “So, how do you know if it is old and collectible, Aunt Tura? Some of the stuff I see in your store just looks old and ugly!” Nikki said. “Years of experience, Nichole. According to my standards for aging items I, myself would be described as vintage!”

The Law Of Clothing

May 5, 2010

Society as we know it has the freedom to wear pretty much what he or she wants to. There are exceptions where fashion is not a freedom and laws do govern how we wear clothing. There are some strict guidelines in some cultures and religious sects. For instance; Islamic culture requires women to wear a burqa, a head to toe enveloping outer garment worn for the purpose of hiding a female's body when out in public. Nuns and Monks are required to wear habits as their daily wear. For the most part, these examples can be said that they are a person’s freedom to choose as well. She chose to be a Nun; therefore her clothing depicts her choice.

I would like to be perfectly clear on this subject. I am not disputing or debating the rules of fashion: “Can’t wear white after Labor Day” or “Women over 30 shouldn’t wear mini skirts”; I’ll leave that to Stacy London and I am not wanting to discuss freedom of personal attire. Let’s talk about laws for a moment. There are several laws or ordinances on the books right now concerning fashion. They currently may not be enforced; but, there was a time and a thought behind them for lawmakers to think that they were necessary.

LIVERPOOL, ENGLAND- it is illegal for a woman to be topless in public unless she is employed in an exotic fish shop.

JAPAN- It is illegal to wear purple unless you are in mourning.

THAILAND- a man must always wear a shirt if he is driving.

OREGON- Women must not wear see through clothing in the presence of a man.

CARMEL, NEW YORK- A man cannot be seen in public while wearing a jacket and pants that do not match.

FLORIDA- Men may not be seen publicly in any kind of strapless gown.

NORTH DAKOTA- It is illegal to lie down and fall asleep with your shoes on.

OHIO- Women are forbidden from wearing patent leather shoes, lest men see reflections of their underwear.

OKLAHOMA- If you wear New York Jets’ clothing, you may be put in jail.

Put A Lid On It

May 17, 2010

Put a lid on it
What's that you say?
Put a lid on it
Oh man, no way
Put a lid down on it, and everything will be all right.

What a great song by the Squirrel Nut Zippers. It is a great song to swing dance to. I am a swing kid. Swing dancing is only one aspect of the vintage subculture that I am attracted to. It reminds me of those glory days of yore when a Friday night was the night that Cats and Dolls would get all gussied up to boogie woogie at the jazz clubs. What has happened to our culture’s dress code since then? Gentlemen wore fedoras, pork pies and newsboy hats and ladies were expected to wear a proper head covering sometimes involving a veil. So, I propose we revive the custom of wearing hats. They can be both functional and an attractive addition to one’s outfit. Hats can transform a Sloppy Joe into a Dapper Dan. I say; put a lid on it!

Lid, cap, fez, pill box, bucket or beret; however you say it, it is a hat. I have a modest collection of hats myself. I have my Veda hat. It is a floppy, red straw cloche’ similar to the one worn by the character Veda Sultenfuss in My Girl. It is great for those “bad hair” days and riding my pink Schwinn cruiser around the neighborhood. I have a black, wide brimmed hat with blood red, velvet trim and bow. This hat is nicknamed my Virginia Woolf hat. I had to have this hat when I found it for it screamed creative inspiration to me; though, I must admit I am no poet and not much of a fan of poetry either. However, I tend to wear all black with this one. Perhaps this hat channels too much inspiration from the turmoil of the real Virginia Woolf. My favorite hat in my collection is a beat up and faded baseball hat from the French Quarter. I felt sorry for a street urchin one night and “donated” a ten dollar bill to her noble cause. I can only hope she did not exchange the bill on Bourbon Street for libations or some other vice.

I noticed not too long ago that decorators and decorating magazines were showing vintage and vintage inspired hat boxes stacked up and used as a side table or conversation pieces in a room. I love the renaissance of the hat box but what about the hats that once lived in them? Vintage hats that are in good condition are getting harder and harder to find. Most of the fashion hats that women wore; ones we are most familiar with, ceased mass production in the late ‘60’s. Women were burning their bras; why would they spend their newly, hard-earned money on a hat? There are other socio/political reasons; but that can be another Jean Louise blog topic at another time. Times, they did a change.

I began my hat collecting in the ‘80’s as a teenager. I hoped that my hat wearing would inspire others to do the same but; sadly, the inspiration was limited to a small sect of other vintage new wavers and punk rockers. I still wear my hats and I still collect them. Who knows? Maybe as we venture into the teen years of this new millennium we will see a change similar to that of 100 years ago; the fabulous jazz age of F. Scott Fitzgerald. So, the next time you are getting ready for a night out on the town think about puttin’ a lid on it.

Ode to Malcolm's Fashion Sense

It has been five days since I heard the news that Malcolm McLaren passed away. When I heard the news I felt ambivalent. I didn’t want to do a “happy” dance or shed a tear. *shrug*. Whatever…So why am I blogging about this? Reflection tends to come with death; any death, and Malcolm’s death has made me pause and reflect upon my fashion influences.

I vividly remember trying to recreate the looks that were depicted in the film “The Great Rock ‘n’ Roll Swindle”. I saw the beautiful and the vulgar coexisting and that concept excited me! This was the first time I ever heard the name Malcolm McLaren and it was also during this time that I was most excited about clothing. I started to read all the fashion rags including the imported “Vogue” magazines from London and Paris. I thought I was so chic.

The 80’s were a great time for me to mix and match and have fun with clothes. Vintage clothing seemed to be teeming from every thrift store and parents of friends were giving it away to me in truckloads! I would put together the most hideous outfits, wear them, knowing I might be put to ridicule but damn it, I was proud of my creations. I ponder what my wardrobe would have been like all these years if I had never seen video clips of Adam Ant on music shows prior to Mtv.

Today, I still have fun mixing and matching styles, designs, colors and textures. Now I take cues from Betsey Johnson and designers on Etsy. I’m not hard to miss sporting a Joan Jett haircut, wearing Chuck Taylors and a Max Azria dress while carrying one of Betsey’s signature bags.

Malcolm didn’t put his name on a label, and there are those of you out there to dispute just what he DID contribute to fashion; but acknowledging he was in the middle of an explosive time of fashion is without a doubt.

Vintage Is As Vintage Does

April 5, 2010

It is no accident that I am a vintage enthusiast. Pictures of my childhood in the late 60's capture me wearing black and white saddle shoes and baby blue cat eye glasses. I cannot remember a time that I was NOT playing dress up.

At the very young age of 6 or 7, I wanted to increase the wardrobe changes for my Malibu Barbie. My Grandma Mary taught me how to sew on her 1920's cast iron Singer sewing machine and my fashion direction took a new turn. In the 70's and 80's I created and sewed many a theatrical costume during my high school drama career as well as ones for my children in later years. No matter what the time period was; my costumes were always created with vintage in mind.

Incorporating vintage and modern fashions and accessorizing with textiles and millenary became my own personal style. Almost 30 years later- the story is the same but now I am offering my passion and love of vintage to everyone worldwide.