What Not To Wear

Is this still a question of fashion faux pas? Stacy London is sooo annoying to me telling women their fashion choices are horrid. I, myself have an unusual sense of fashion and I know for a fact I would be a perfect target for her. She likes to tell everyone what to wear and how to wear it. I have noticed others too, in certain groups, like to set rules for what to and what not to wear.

As my profile states I am a nerdy girl - I was a drama geek; we used to wear trench coats and tons and tons of black plastic bracelets and we accepted each other while trading new and quirky fashion tips. As an adult I am finding that these types of groups are a little less accepting.

I may be getting ahead of myself here and speaking out of turn, but I am still learning about steampunk and its aesthetics. Sometimes I read about people making fun of other "cosplayers". Steampunk wardrobes and costumes usually have some sort of mechanical influence with cogs and gears attached. According to some...you just can't sew on some gears and cogs and call it steampunk...

I mean, come on; all newcomers need to start somewhere. Mentors are needed for newbies.

I was watching The Nerdist the other night and Chris and the panel were discussing how us geeks don't know everything geek/nerd and we don't have time to watch every Star Wars movie or Battlestar Galactica program and sadly enough...not everyone knows what a TARDIS is.

http://www.nerdist.com/podcast/nerdist/

The point I am trying to make here is that everyone can overlap their interests and they need some time to assimilate into the new environment. Not all of us did live action role playing- even us drama geeks.

BTW- TARDIS stands for time and dimension device in space! Now you know!

Plates Serve Up Fashion

If you have been following my posts I mention re-purposing or combining various pieces of patterns or textiles to get the finished result I am looking for. I was browsing for ideas for my blog today and I came across someone else's blog and it immediately brought back childhood memories and perhaps the inspiration for my sewing projects.

I don't exactly remember if I got the Fashion Plates toy as a birthday present or Christmas present but nonetheless it was a present I used for a very long time.

I must have been around 10 when these plates came out on the market but I do remember "playing" with them through my high school years. If you are not familiar with this toy; it comes with several different sized plates of different pieces of one outfit, a set of colored pencils and a frame and onion paper.

After you choose your plates to make your outfit you lay them in the frame, cover with the paper secure the top frame over the plates and use the pencils to color in the design. I made some of the craziest outfits with this toy. I think it would still be cool to have one of these around.

Fashion plates are not a modern means of clothing design. They were used a lot in the late 1900's and early 20th century as pictures in magazines, catalogs and advertising to depict the current fashion to the public. The pictures were not rudimentary but they did have a generic look. They were also used a lot in book illustrating. From my research, before fashion plate illustrations were available to show off the current trend; the outfits were sewn, completed with the desired colors and trim and offered on dolls called berlines. It is said that this is how Marie Antoinette chose her various gowns.

(example fashion plate illustration c1900)

Patterns of Design

Patterns of Design...It just has a sophisticated ring to it. So...engineering-esc.

So much for my sophisticated style of writing, making up words. But, I am not here to blog about writing or engineering. I would like to talk about patterns and pattern making.

I did some looking up stuff (googling) as they call it nowadays...and found out that American pattern making was completely different than that of European sewing. There was no marketplace for homemakers for clothing; with the extremely rich the exception; so a way in which the homemaker could expand their wardrobe was necessary. In 1860, Mr. and Mrs. William Jennings Demorest made fashion patterns for home seamstresses. They sold a magazine, what I would call a catalog, with 100s of different patterns. The patterns were rudimentary for the most part; mostly made in only one size and did not come with instructions.

When I was a kid I used to love to go to the fabric store with my mom. She did a lot of home sewing and most of my outfits were homemade. I loved to sit at desks with the big, ginormus pattern catalogs .Flipping those pages were so fun! Even more fun was opening the big, ginormus pattern file cabinets and searching for my pattern number- sort of like treasure hunting!

I have been altering patterns for awhile now trying to get just the right look- because a pattern for what I want doesn't really exist. I find this really rewarding making my own OOAK piece of clothing. If you read my profile- you will know that I search for vintage patterns and notions. I did a bit of shopping at a local Goodwill tonight and came across a curious pattern.

If you are younger than 30 and know who Mr. Blackwell is than I salute your fashion history knowledge. For those of you who DON'T know who he is; he is most known for being a fashion critic and at the end of every year he would create his "worst dressed list". In the '50s he had his own boutique "House of Blackwell", his own designer clothing line and pattern designs AND he dressed the stars! Yvonne Di Carlo (Lily Munster), Jayne Mansfield and Nancy Reagan just to name a few. So, I thought this was a great find for 69 cents and uncut! A cool piece of fashion history.

Plaid Is My Favorite Color

If my daughter ever reads this blog, I hope that she understands that a little teasing is not meant to hurt her feelings but to show her diverseness. (I even make up words too!)

Jennifer said, "Plaid is my favorite color!" We giggled, but knew this to be true. She wears a lot of plaid and I think she does consider it to be a color.

I didn't think that there were other plaid patterns besides red tartan and even then, I believe I am wrong in that description. When I looked up the definition of plaid is says there are several types of plaid; madras, tartan and glen and then those types have subcatagories too.

I am watching "The King's Speech" for like the 1000th time, because I cannot resist a Colin Firth film!

In the film Colin (King George XI) is seen wearing a kilt in the Windsor family plaid, its called Balmoral plaid. Colin looks SO much better in one than Prince Charles EVER would.

The plaid design was first introduced by Queen Victoria's court and first worn by her husband Prince Albert. Today, the royal family still wear the design. Royal designs date back to medieval times and each design is unique and you can tell the name of different families.There is a world registry to find colors, styles and names.

         http://www.tartans.scotland.net/world_register.cfm.htm

Fabulous, Darling- Cheers!

Last month BBC aired a new episode of Absolutely Fabulous, its 20 year anniversary Christmas special. Us Yanks, don't get to watch it until this Sunday, January 8th on BBC America.

I am proud to call myself an anglophile and I have been avid watcher of this show since its beginning. I love how the show revolves around the fashion industry and the indulgence of vanity. Most of the time you think the show is just about two middle aged women who drink too much, smoke too much and shop too much; sometimes all at the same time!

Jane Harrocks

One of my favorite characters on the show is Bubble, played by Jane Harrocks. I always hoped she would be in the next episode so 
I could see what crazy, outrageous outfit she would wear!

If I had watched this show in the 80s you might have thought she was my inspiration for some of  my ensembles. Almost 30 years later I still wear a crazy piece of clothing or two. She also plays 2 other characters on the show. I think she is completely brilliant!

Here are a few of my favorite Bubble outfits:

If you are not familiar with this show- I highly recommend you catch an episode or two. It is...Absolutely Fabulous!

Happy New Year! 2012

Hello! and welcome to my first blog for the new year "resolutions". As you can see from the archives, it has been over 2 years since I sat in front of this blog screen to type.
Resolutions and the idea of one doesn't actually sit well with me. I feel pressure for perfection and not having enough tools to modify a resolution yet still stay within the original parameters of the resolution. So, I get nervous, my perfectionism starts to take over the resolution/project and then it gets put on the back burner. Next thing you know it it holiday time again and I remember that project is still on the back burner collecting dust, and BAM it is the new year again and time to make those silly- ineffective resolutions- so I ask, why?
So, on this day; the first of January, 2012:
I won't resolve to write on my blog everyday; but will share new activity in my life in regard to my shop and sewing projects without looking for perfection or worrying if I am keeping within guidelines. I will not limit myself. I will have fun and be silly and not take myself or my work too seriously! Most important, I put my perfectionism and nervousness on the back burner to sit until I feel like I have eliminated those flaws from my life. A flaw that can hinder my creativity for merely being afraid of failure.
Bottom line is; I will not pressure myself or set hard to reach goals. I will continue to work on my Etsy shop and make more and more friends and network there. I will make find new and exciting projects that stimulate me and keep my mind busy so they do not get put on the back burner- I am going to have a great year.
Wow- that sounds like a LOT of resolutions, don't it!

Wintertime Blues and Greens and Yellows and Pinks...

With winter just days away, I ponder upon the notion of seasonal clothing. Why do fashion designers and media tell us to wear clothing to match the landscapes?

Fall clothing is usually burnt oranges, mustard yellows and browns. Winter clothing is usually black, navy and grey. I have lived in climates that reach the below zero temperatures and the skies are grey and cloudy for several months. As a result of the dreariness, I became susceptible to depression and lack of energy. I blamed it on lack of color.

I have researched this phenomenon and found several studies about wintertime blues and the lack of color. Albeit, these studies explain a serious mental disorder and obviously there are other symptoms involved, but I would like to take this opportunity to challenge fashion designers to offer brighter, happier colors in their winter collections. In the past, cold weather clothing made of wool or cashmere was only available in dark or dull colors. I have noticed a slight increase in brighter colors in these fabrics over the recent years but I think the fashion industry only wants to encourage the use of color by adding accessories- just a little bit to "make it pop" as the phrase goes.

I do not live in that cold climate anymore. I reside in a much more even tempered environment that will let me wear more choices of clothing and fabrics year round. For this I am grateful- but it doesn't stop the window dressers at the local mall from outfitting the mannequins in black and grey. So my advice to those with a craving for color in the winter is: wear weather appropriate clothing in any color, shade,pattern or fabric.

Yes Virginia, there is a cure to the wintertime blues.

Tag! You're it!

Labels and tags that are given to people are not always a good thing. Labels and tags for clothing, however; can tell you a story. When shopping for vintage clothing, one of the first things I look for on a piece of clothing is the label. Clothing tags give you the typical information: manufacturer, size, material, etc. If a size and material label are not found; then sometimes I can find an RN number.

RN stands for Registered Number. This means that the clothing manufacturer is registered with the US Federal Trade Commission. RN numbers are very helpful because it will link the piece of clothing to a designer or clothing line. From there, you can search the manufacturer’s years of production. There are several links online including a very informative link on one of my favorite websites: Vintage Fashion Guild
http://www.vintagefashionguild.org/component/option,com_alphacontent/Itemid,100

Not all clothing has tags or RN numbers; this is largely due to the fact that a lot of clothing that was made prior to 1970 was handmade. Handmade clothing is harder to date and identify but usually there are signs to help determine those characteristics. I was sewing on an old cast iron Singer before ever taking a home economics class. As a result, I think that I am more familiar with fabrics and textures than a lot of people nowadays. I am grateful for my interest in clothing at an age when you could choose from several textures and weights in fabric as opposed to the purely 100% cottons that you find at your local fabric stores today.

One thing I can almost always count on when dating fabric is that any heavy polyester or polyester knit fabric is ALWAYS geeky in appearance and ALWAYS 1970’s! But, “Hey”; I am almost always geeky in appearance so I don’t mind being labeled in that respect.

Recycling Will Save The Pelicans

June 2, 2010

There was a time and a place when any well respected, properly dressed, modern woman NOT only wore stockings but she would carry around a spare pair in her purse, just in case. Stockings were made of silk and they averaged about $2.00 a pair, maybe more depending on where you shopped. Today, the average American pays more than $2.00 for their morning cup of coffee. In 1940, the average American household lived on less than $24.00 per week so if you got a snag in your stockings I’m not sure you could just go out and buy another pair of stockings without sacrificing some of the family’s monthly allowance. Then, on May 15, 1940 the Du Pont Company changed how the modern woman bought and wore hosiery. It was the first day that nylon stockings were sold retail!

I came up with the concept of this blog weeks ago and thought it would be fun to explore the world of “plastic” clothing. However, as I am typing it, gallons and gallons of crude oil continue to spill into the waters of the Gulf of Mexico and kill wildlife and seafood sources of the region. I now have writer’s remorse. I don’t want to give the impression that I support offshore drilling as a viable means to continue to produce synthetic clothing and textiles by writing about the fascinating world of nylon.

On April 20, 2010, a semi-submersible exploratory offshore drilling rig in the Gulf of Mexico exploded after a blowout and sank two days later, killing eleven (11) people and causing a massive oil spill threatening the coast of Louisiana, Mississippi, Alabama, Texas, and Florida The rig is owned and operated by Transocean, Ltd., on behalf of BP.

Now, as I re-read what I started to write; I ponder this notion; “Did Mr. Du Pont’s vision of re-creating a world of synthetic fibers and materials for clothing include killing off some of our world’s richest, natural resources?” In 1937 new and exciting studies on hemp were being introduced to society. These studies of hemp coincided with Mr. Du Pont patenting his creation, nylon. Over the years it has been argued that Mr. Du Pont paid millions of dollars to private organizations to create special groups that advocate the criminalization of the production of hemp and slander its positive qualities, especially its use as a fiber in textiles. Do any of the labels on your clothing say 100% hemp? I know I don’t have any. The majority of my wardrobe is created from a fabric made of blended synthetics and cottons. Supporting recycling and reuse of already manufactured clothing, such as vintage articles is a safer way to wear the fabrics of the future.

I pray that the oil executives will control the spill and cease the production of future spilling of oil into the Gulf very soon. I also pray that a new awareness of the idea: “You Are What You Wear” will surface and force the textile industry to re-think how fibers are used.

Does Vintage Always Mean Collectible?

May 13, 2010

“Look at this great t- shirt Aunt Tura!” I heard my niece yell these words across the rows of clothing racks at my local Goodwill. I went over to see what had excited her so much. “This is cool, huh? And, it is old; it says 1978 on it!” she said. My heart gave a flutter; at last, I have a protégé to teach the finesse of vintage shopping. Upon closer inspection my fluttering heart sank. I always check the tags of clothing first and it read Old Navy. “Oh, it’s a cute top, but its retro” I said. “Retro? Isn’t that old?” she asked. Protégé, she may still be! Here was a perfect opportunity for me insert a quick tutorial on shopping for clothing and items considered vintage and collectible.

Generally speaking, clothing and mass produced goods that were manufactured before the 1920s are referred to as antique. Items from the 1920s through the mid 1980s are considered vintage. Retro, short for retrospective usually refers to items that imitate the style of a previous decade. Goods that are produced currently are usually called modern or contemporary. Opinions can vary on these definitions. This is how I determine the age of clothing and items and describe them as vintage. Do I consider all vintage items collectible? Uh, no. So, how can something that by its age can be considered vintage; be considered valuable or collectible? That’s easy: supply and demand.

The best way to see supply and demand work is on eBay. Nowadays people want green options and so recycling clothing and household items is a big motivator. Online commerce has created a whole new batch of vintage dealers because buying and wearing vintage clothing and accessories has become tres chic as well as responsible. Searching for buying opportunities online is the perfect place to see vintage vs. old crap being sold. I am in constant awe of people and their ignorance. For example; I found a listing for a Vintage 50’s Poodle Skirt. Yes, it was a skirt. Yes, it had a poodle on it. Was it vintage? Uh, no. The skirt was a costume reproduction. Was it crap? Not necessarily. I was very let down though, because I really wanted to purchase a vintage poodle skirt for $1.00! Did the seller try to deceive me with his description? Perhaps he did try. I do not condone this selling practice but this is how the supply and demand premise works. If a seller puts the word vintage in front of an item it will attract buyers. I do believe that many a seller and buyer of vintage are being led astray.

There are several online sites to help the novice vintage buyer educate themselves. I have found sites dedicated to indexing the RN number of clothing manufacturing. These numbers are found on garment tags and the number will correspond to a certain date. The RN numbers were assigned by the Federal Trade Commission for clothing manufactured in the US. This tag number makes it easy to look up it’s “circa” date. I also love to peruse costume sites for references. I might find parts of a dress or suit that was popular in an era to help determine its age. Because retro clothing of the 50’s is becoming more popular, we know a lot of it is mimicking the WWII era. So, be an educated buyer. Do some google-ing and become an expert of vintage vs. crap.

So; back to my little shopping tutorial. “So, how do you know if it is old and collectible, Aunt Tura? Some of the stuff I see in your store just looks old and ugly!” Nikki said. “Years of experience, Nichole. According to my standards for aging items I, myself would be described as vintage!”

The Law Of Clothing

May 5, 2010

Society as we know it has the freedom to wear pretty much what he or she wants to. There are exceptions where fashion is not a freedom and laws do govern how we wear clothing. There are some strict guidelines in some cultures and religious sects. For instance; Islamic culture requires women to wear a burqa, a head to toe enveloping outer garment worn for the purpose of hiding a female's body when out in public. Nuns and Monks are required to wear habits as their daily wear. For the most part, these examples can be said that they are a person’s freedom to choose as well. She chose to be a Nun; therefore her clothing depicts her choice.

I would like to be perfectly clear on this subject. I am not disputing or debating the rules of fashion: “Can’t wear white after Labor Day” or “Women over 30 shouldn’t wear mini skirts”; I’ll leave that to Stacy London and I am not wanting to discuss freedom of personal attire. Let’s talk about laws for a moment. There are several laws or ordinances on the books right now concerning fashion. They currently may not be enforced; but, there was a time and a thought behind them for lawmakers to think that they were necessary.

LIVERPOOL, ENGLAND- it is illegal for a woman to be topless in public unless she is employed in an exotic fish shop.

JAPAN- It is illegal to wear purple unless you are in mourning.

THAILAND- a man must always wear a shirt if he is driving.

OREGON- Women must not wear see through clothing in the presence of a man.

CARMEL, NEW YORK- A man cannot be seen in public while wearing a jacket and pants that do not match.

FLORIDA- Men may not be seen publicly in any kind of strapless gown.

NORTH DAKOTA- It is illegal to lie down and fall asleep with your shoes on.

OHIO- Women are forbidden from wearing patent leather shoes, lest men see reflections of their underwear.

OKLAHOMA- If you wear New York Jets’ clothing, you may be put in jail.