All On A Mardi Gras Day

Mardi Gras is exactly one month away this year. Me and my friends are usually knee deep in tulle and feathers in preparation of our costumes for either; our participation in various parades or our Mardi Gras day costume. This year I won't be in New Orleans to participate in parades or celebrate the day; however there is a possibility of participation in a Mardi Gras parade in Phoneix this year.

I am in the Arizona Steampunk Society and promoters of the Mardi Gras parade has invited the society to participate. I would like to say that everyone jumped at the moment of hearing this news but- that wasn't exactly the case. I have had bated breath wanting to know if we do participate if will be a theme or coordination of color. The one thing I do know is that there will be a steampunk influence.

I went ahead and started preparation of of a costume- tame as it will be in comparison to a costume for New Orleans Mardi Gras costume- a costume in steampunk style.

I chose fabrics in traditional Mardi Gras colors; green, purple and gold. I found some really great harlequin pattern fabric in cotton calico blended weight. I decided to make a Victorian inspired outfit using this Simplicity pattern.

Like I said above, I am using a cotton not a satin or taffeta like you see in the picture.

I am working on the bustier first and working the rest of the outfit later. Look at all these pieces I needed to cut out. For each pattern piece I had to cut out 2 of each layer; 2 of the front of the top, 2 pieces of fusible interfacing and 2 pieces of of the inside lining fabric (the green fabric).

The bustier also requires featherweight boning and a zipper. It is unusual for a typical bustier to have a zipper in place of corset laces or heavy hook and eye closures.

Since I am still in the preparation stage of this project I will have come back and give an update as my project progresses.

Bow Ties Are Cool

Are you tired of that phrase yet? What about Fezzes- Fez are cool? I, myself don't mind it at all and like the reminder of the first time I heard it and just how clever Matt Smith was saying it!

When the 11th doctor finished regenerating we find him sporting a tweed coat, All Saints layer boots and the smartest little bow tie. It is obvious, Matt Smith didn't introduce bow ties to fashion but he sure is rocking the look during the height of its resurgence. Before I go any further I must pay homage to Pee Wee and his trademarked red bow tie.

Paul Rubens AKA Pee Wee

I don't know if you noticed during the past Christmas season, but retail chain stores were displaying bow ties loud and proud- an array of every color, fabric and design. Prices ranged from the teens to $75.00 in some stores. It made my heart sink just a tiny bit see all the commercialism of the cutest accessory for men (in my opinion) because it was a project and new item I planned on adding to my Etsy shop. I kicked a rock or two for a minute and decided to just get over it and move on with my designs. 

I searched the internet for bow tie ideas. I already knew that I wanted my designs to be the old fashioned tie it yourself type. I found lots of how to videos and blogs and finally took a little from a few different places to come up with my design. I found my template on marthastewart.com. The template included two patterns; one a butterfly pattern and the second a straight, rectangular style. If you would like to modify the pattern you can make it into an arrow shape very easily.

When I started working on my ties it was around Halloween and I was sort of monitoring the trend for costumes and costume accessories.

The "Ringmaster" costume was one of the more popular outfits this year (according to my daughter). Most of the costumes I found were a combination of red and white with black and white stripes used in various ways. So I made a couple pieces for her with that color scheme. 

I also set out to make my first bow tie. If you read my blog from a few days ago - you will know that I have limited access to a variety of fabric. I did, however find some cool red and white striped fabric at my local Wal - Mart for only $2.97 a yard.

I made these cuffs out of scraps of the fabric. I wrapped a piece of fabric around my wrist and made sure I had a bit extra for hems. I hemmed each side of the cuff, sewed a casing down the middle of the cuff on the inside and added the elastic, again, only measuring how much by what is comfortable on my wrist. When I sewed the sides together I was done! One project down- now to tackle bow ties!

I picked up fabric here and there that I thought would work as a bow tie. I looked for funky and unusual colors and designs. The target customer I have in mind would appreciate a stylish bow tie in neon green or a design of clocks. I laid out my fabric which is exactly one yard if you are using stripes or a design because you need to keep the lines matched up. Next, I laid out my handmade template and cut out the pieces (which, there is total of 4). The last step before I began the actual sewing was lay out the pattern on Pellon. After all that cutting out- you sew a couple pieces together, leave center open turn inside out and use a blindstich to finish it off and that's it.

Bloomin' Awesome!

First and foremost- please forgive the picture quality. I didn't pay attention to the lack of lighting on some pictures until it was too late and I was already full speed in my project.

Now- Allons-y!

My whole life I have been drawn to subcultures- watching old Star Trek and Doctor Who episodes when I was a kid, playing D&D in high school and-all the while sampling various "not top 40s" mainstream music and fashion; and, yes I collected a toy or two...or three. Before you start judging - you just wait! that NIB Queen Amidala Episode I doll is going to be worth $25.00 someday!!!

So here we are, living in the 2000s and there has been a resurgence of fantasy / cosplay / subculture groups, activities and such popping up all over. Steampunk is one of the groups making mainstream noise and getting noticed more and more (i.e) Justin Bieber and his Macy's window displays and the most recent 2012 Rose Bowl Parade featuring a huge mechanical device- all done up in roses of course.

Steampunk is more than its mechanical gears and goggles. The fashion and wardrobe play a huge part in the cosplay scene. The attire can be almost anything ranging from Victorian dresses and bonnets for women and waist coats and stove pipe hats for men, or; an apocalyptic sci-fi alien look complete with ray guns (made from Nerf toys and painted bronze). These items are not easily found and off the rack to purchase immediately. Most people make their own outfits or may commission someone else with sewing skills; in the case of the more intricate item. One item of clothing getting a lot of buzz lately is bloomers. Yeah, I said bloomers. So I set out to make a pair. My project took about 2 1/2 hours with items costing less than $4.00.

First of all I purchased a pair of pajama pants at Goodwill for $1.49. The pair I chose has an elastic waist band with pretty grosgrain ribbon and the sweetest calico print.

Second, I laid out the pants and measured the desired length. I cut off the bottom part of the leg and saved the piece for later use. I 
then hemmed the bottoms with a 3/4" seam.

Third, I rummaged through my notions of ribbon, bias tape and lace and although nothing matched the material I decided to use a soft yellow colored lace and sewed the 2" trim around the bottom of the hem.

Once both legs of the bloomers had been hemmed and trimmed with lace, I began the more challenging part of the project. I couldn't decide if I wanted to use a casing and simply slip the elastic through or use a "sew on" approach that gathers the elastic directly to the fabric. I chose the latter.

Fourth, I measured the elastic around the part of my leg I wanted it to go and tightened it just a bit- so it will keep its shape but not be too tight. Now, the hard part began. I secured the end of the elastic to the inner seam so it was anchored. I proceeded to sew the elastic to the fabric by pulling the elastic as far as it will expand. Eventually I made it around to where I began and secured the elastic with a backstitch.

Fifth and final step- I chose yet, another color of ribbon that did not match any other colors on the bloomers and made a tiny little bow, placed it on the bottom of the leg at the ruffled section and secured it with a tiny, tiny safety pin. Et, voila! a brand new pair of bloomers; upcycled from a pair of pajama pants! I love the mismatched patterns and colors. I consider them more whimsical and Alice in Wonderland style but as a rule, an easy way to "steampunk" an item is just soak it in big pot of tea for several hours!